Not Your Typical Tourist Photo

We visited Siwa in the Western desert, on the edge of the Great Sand Sea, what we commonly think of as the Sahara. The seeming endless expanse continues for 72000 sq km - roughly the size of Ireland - and a region that has yet to be fully explored. The Siwa Oasis is hundreds of kilometers from any other settlement -- a nine hour drive from Cairo.   . 

A highlight of the trip is the ride across the dunes --

on the way we stopped at a cold lake.

 

 

 

 

then stopped on top of a dune waiting for the sun to set over the horizon. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   The sculptured shapes of the wind blown sand captures one's imagination.  It is hard to conceptualize that this was once an inland sea, yet the imbedded shells tell the story.

 

 

















The ever present winds create constantly evolving patterns on the sand surface; the rocks casting shadows in the golden light just before the sun begins to set.

 

An oasis is an amazing phenomenon.  Where there is no water the desert is an endless wasteland.  The water seeping into the oasis produces an agricultural diamond,  Siwa is rich with date, olive and fig orchards along with the occasional apricot and pomegranate.

 

 

 

Irrigation canals have been used for hundreds of years to divert the flow of water -- the construction of new ones are similar to historical versions. 

 

 

 What better way to experience the countryside than by donkey cart, the same mode of transportation which has been used in the area for thousands of years. The donkeys here seem to have a blessed life compared to their Cairo counterparts.

 

 

 

One of the destinations was a lake where we awaited the sunset, after driving beyond the orchards and past the salt flats, were salt is extracted from the saline waters.

 

 

Swim holes have been created to capitalize on the water sources, some icy cold and some almost too hot to plunge into; the water continuously flowing from deep in the earth. Evidently the hole shown  is more than 3 meters deep.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On our way to Siwa, we were told by our guide to be very careful to dress modestly at all times, even if that meant having to wear our clothing in the pools and lakes.  Sexual assaults and advances are apparently commonplace. The Chinese girl above, at 'Cleopatra's Bath' is being hotly pursued by on of the locals.

 

 

History is at your fingertips here.  Alexander the Great was said to have visited a temple, whose ruins remain,  to have his fortune told,  just before his death The hills remain spotted with ancient tombs which were plundered over the centuries.

 

 

 

 

The outline of a 12th century fort dominates the skyline of the busy, noisy town.  The architectural methods are clearly seen, with wood and rope supporting the structure, which was created from the sand.  There is less rain here than in arid Cairo, so the erosion of structures by water is pretty much non-existent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Keep in mind that travelling in Egypt means passing through endless desert terrain, even though this trip was on roads that have a paved, albeit washboard surface .  What we saw from Cairo to Siwa was flat, generally rocky, and unvaried in hue except for mile after mile of colourful bags of garbage thrown everywhere.  Halfway back, just as we commented on the fact that we had not seen any camels  even though we had viewed the crossing signs,  we passed a small herd. 

 

 

 

 

 

As I  photographed them forming into a line to head off into the horizon, I glanced down.  And what should appear before my astonished eyes  but  the whitewashed bones of what seemed to be an entire  skeleton,  laying on  the surface of the sand. 

 

 

 

 On our way back the long trip was broken by a two day stay in Marsa Matrouh on the Meditteranean,  a bustling summer escape for wealthy Egyptians.  Where else would you find a McDonalds overlooking the sea? Like in Siwa, any form of alcoholic drink was non-existent in these strict Muslim areas.

 

 

 

The variations of color of the water, ranging from a pale green to a deep turquoise was a stunning.  At one of the beaches the wind had carved the massive rocks that edged the bay into curvilinear, natural sculptures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Off with her head! 

 

 

How Green Thou Art

    

 

Although I had expected the landscape to be different than that of Cairo, I was amazed by what I saw from the airplane window.

 

 

 It was such a welcome relief after leaving the primarily monotonous browns of the desert landscape of Egypt. As we descended into Casablanca, Morocco, it was hard to believe the vibrant greens and brilliant yellows of the fields was real. They lay like a patchwork quilt below and I wondered how the patterns and colors would translate into photographable scenery.

As I travelled on the train from the airport it quickly became evident that the aerial mosaic represented a rich, varied agricultural landscape. I began to see that the wealth of green hues were created by a wide range of spring crops; which I later learned were ones such as cabbages, grains, lettuces, and beets. Although some of the fields had appeared only orange and yellow from the air I now realized these were green fields liberally sprinkled with brilliant blooms










Fields which initially appeared to be solely green, turned out to be meadows full of numerous varieties of wildflowers in a palette of brilliant spring colors, the most prominent being the scarlet poppy.
 

 

 
The patches of solid color of the fields were broken by shapes and patterns. What first appeared as silvery gray circular shapes, on the hillsides, were endless rows of olive trees, the ground beneath tidily interplanted with low growing crops. Here and here there orchards of rust colored almond trees and pink blossomed fruit trees provided contrast. (blog2).

 Jagged lines of pale green, intersecting the landscape, proved to be towering borders of prickly pear cactus dividing the fields and providing fruit.(blog3,4)

 

 

 

 

 

 

. . The vegetation provided the background for the most memorable images. Many of the irregular patches of brown , white and grey scattered across the fields were were herds of goats and sheep. led by long robed herders and family groups, bringing the scenes to life.

 

 Everywhere there were donkeys, so many colors, solid and variegated, yet all with glorious thick fur. Their role in this landscape was immediately clear, whether pulling a cart or carrying people and crops, they are the same beasts of burden that have occupied these lands for thousands of years. Everywhere there was evidence that the land was central to the lives of the inhabitants. (blog5,6,7)

 

     In spring Morocco provides a colorful landscape for memorable images. It was fascinating to see how my first glimpse translated into direct experiences. Those first impression led me to explore and to ask the questions which led to a greater understanding about life in rural Morocco.

 

 

 

 

What birds are those? The huge nests perched on top of poles piqued my curiosity.  After the initial disappointment of not having the opportunity to take photos of the first one we saw, we had the amazing experience of seeing the large storks in a myriad of poses. As we journeyed through the spring landscape  it was evident how many storks populated this area as we saw nest atop walls, apartment buildings and walls.  A dual image of spring couples the fragrant white orange blossoms from a courtyard orchard with the nests on the top of the remaining walls of a palace constructed in the 800's.

 

From this agricultural tradition where chemical fertilizers are too expensive to use, in a Meditteranean land, where there has been a middle eastern influence, but with close ties with French and other European contact, a cuisine has evolved that is amazing. The food is fresh and varied, the spices and herbs delicate, and there is no evidence of the processing that has taken North American by storm. -- lamb stewed in clay pots for hours, tiny chickens with prunes, mixtures of tomatoes, onions and garlic with a delicate spice blend, tajines (stew cooked in a special clay pot) along with a bounty of fresh fruit.(blog11). We didn't try the meat from the heads pictured below.

Coupled with the agricultural beauty one of the chief draws of tourism in Morocco are the beautifully crafted handicrafts,  many handmade in the same way they have been for 100's of years.  While there are similar artifacts in other middle eastern countries we have visited, the workmanship here is consistently superior,  having such attention to detail --

leatherwork

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 mosaics,

 

 

 

 

 

 

woodwork,

 

 

 

 pottery, 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and ironwork. The workshops are down the narrow alleys of the ancient walled cities, built between the 8th and 12th centuries, many in small narrow shops narrower than a single car garage.  Metal is cut and welded by hand as were the tiny shapes that went into mosaics and the details in the wood carvings. 

 

 

 

 

 

Wool and 'Moroccan silk' (which here is a thread from the agave yucca) is died with natural colors in vibrant rich colors,   poppy red, indigo and cobalt blue etc.  and hung to dry.  Shops artfully display skeins of the silk, like rainbows in the maze of varied market stalls.   It is hard to believe that in our industrialized world there are still places where this kind of craftsmanship is still central to the economy.

Since the artistry has existed for many 100's of years and the old cities, dating from before and during medieval times, still exists we were enthralled my some of the detailing in those palaces and tombs.  The pure, strong colors enhanced the vibrancy of the intricate designs.  In many of the these old buildings there was plaster that was cast with three dimensional patterns, the tiny impressions painted in complex geometric designs. 

 

 

 

We hope to return to Morocco.  The travel is easy with efficient train service and many people who speak French and/or English, the cuisine is amazing and there is still much to see on the coast and in the desert of the South.