How Green Thou Art

    

 

Although I had expected the landscape to be different than that of Cairo, I was amazed by what I saw from the airplane window.

 

 

 It was such a welcome relief after leaving the primarily monotonous browns of the desert landscape of Egypt. As we descended into Casablanca, Morocco, it was hard to believe the vibrant greens and brilliant yellows of the fields was real. They lay like a patchwork quilt below and I wondered how the patterns and colors would translate into photographable scenery.

As I travelled on the train from the airport it quickly became evident that the aerial mosaic represented a rich, varied agricultural landscape. I began to see that the wealth of green hues were created by a wide range of spring crops; which I later learned were ones such as cabbages, grains, lettuces, and beets. Although some of the fields had appeared only orange and yellow from the air I now realized these were green fields liberally sprinkled with brilliant blooms










Fields which initially appeared to be solely green, turned out to be meadows full of numerous varieties of wildflowers in a palette of brilliant spring colors, the most prominent being the scarlet poppy.
 

 

 
The patches of solid color of the fields were broken by shapes and patterns. What first appeared as silvery gray circular shapes, on the hillsides, were endless rows of olive trees, the ground beneath tidily interplanted with low growing crops. Here and here there orchards of rust colored almond trees and pink blossomed fruit trees provided contrast. (blog2).

 Jagged lines of pale green, intersecting the landscape, proved to be towering borders of prickly pear cactus dividing the fields and providing fruit.(blog3,4)

 

 

 

 

 

 

. . The vegetation provided the background for the most memorable images. Many of the irregular patches of brown , white and grey scattered across the fields were were herds of goats and sheep. led by long robed herders and family groups, bringing the scenes to life.

 

 Everywhere there were donkeys, so many colors, solid and variegated, yet all with glorious thick fur. Their role in this landscape was immediately clear, whether pulling a cart or carrying people and crops, they are the same beasts of burden that have occupied these lands for thousands of years. Everywhere there was evidence that the land was central to the lives of the inhabitants. (blog5,6,7)

 

     In spring Morocco provides a colorful landscape for memorable images. It was fascinating to see how my first glimpse translated into direct experiences. Those first impression led me to explore and to ask the questions which led to a greater understanding about life in rural Morocco.

 

 

 

 

What birds are those? The huge nests perched on top of poles piqued my curiosity.  After the initial disappointment of not having the opportunity to take photos of the first one we saw, we had the amazing experience of seeing the large storks in a myriad of poses. As we journeyed through the spring landscape  it was evident how many storks populated this area as we saw nest atop walls, apartment buildings and walls.  A dual image of spring couples the fragrant white orange blossoms from a courtyard orchard with the nests on the top of the remaining walls of a palace constructed in the 800's.

 

From this agricultural tradition where chemical fertilizers are too expensive to use, in a Meditteranean land, where there has been a middle eastern influence, but with close ties with French and other European contact, a cuisine has evolved that is amazing. The food is fresh and varied, the spices and herbs delicate, and there is no evidence of the processing that has taken North American by storm. -- lamb stewed in clay pots for hours, tiny chickens with prunes, mixtures of tomatoes, onions and garlic with a delicate spice blend, tajines (stew cooked in a special clay pot) along with a bounty of fresh fruit.(blog11). We didn't try the meat from the heads pictured below.

Coupled with the agricultural beauty one of the chief draws of tourism in Morocco are the beautifully crafted handicrafts,  many handmade in the same way they have been for 100's of years.  While there are similar artifacts in other middle eastern countries we have visited, the workmanship here is consistently superior,  having such attention to detail --

leatherwork

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 mosaics,

 

 

 

 

 

 

woodwork,

 

 

 

 pottery, 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and ironwork. The workshops are down the narrow alleys of the ancient walled cities, built between the 8th and 12th centuries, many in small narrow shops narrower than a single car garage.  Metal is cut and welded by hand as were the tiny shapes that went into mosaics and the details in the wood carvings. 

 

 

 

 

 

Wool and 'Moroccan silk' (which here is a thread from the agave yucca) is died with natural colors in vibrant rich colors,   poppy red, indigo and cobalt blue etc.  and hung to dry.  Shops artfully display skeins of the silk, like rainbows in the maze of varied market stalls.   It is hard to believe that in our industrialized world there are still places where this kind of craftsmanship is still central to the economy.

Since the artistry has existed for many 100's of years and the old cities, dating from before and during medieval times, still exists we were enthralled my some of the detailing in those palaces and tombs.  The pure, strong colors enhanced the vibrancy of the intricate designs.  In many of the these old buildings there was plaster that was cast with three dimensional patterns, the tiny impressions painted in complex geometric designs. 

 

 

 

We hope to return to Morocco.  The travel is easy with efficient train service and many people who speak French and/or English, the cuisine is amazing and there is still much to see on the coast and in the desert of the South.